Madeira is on a dormant volcano and the fertile soils have produced a lush landscape. In my periphery, I see a bottlenose dolphin jump out of the water and suddenly we’re surrounded by dozens of them Pete acts as a tour guide for the week, and with his 15-year-old staffy, Lulu, we head out in a rickety old Renault Clio, which huffs and puffs up the island’s steep highways, through long mountain tunnels, and along winding dusty dirt tracks. However, there are good deals all over the island, especially if you come out of season, and Madeira has a subtropical climate and boasts year-round sunshine. My uncle Pete, (not my real uncle but a former care worker who cared for me in a children’s home) has retired here and is looking after a villa for one of his friends, so I skirt accommodation costs. Photograph: Horacio Villalobos/Corbis/Getty Images ![]() Children pose in front of the Cristiano Ronaldo statue outside the CR7 hotel in Funchal.
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